The Ancient Roots of Samhain: Halloween in County Kerry

As the crisp October air sweeps across County Kerry, there is a palpable shift in the atmosphere—a sense of ancient magic in the hills and valleys. The origins of Halloween, known in Irish as Samhain, date back thousands of years to a time when the people of Kerry and the rest of Ireland marked the turning of the year not with the clinking of champagne glasses but with bonfires, feasting, and reverence for the otherworldly.

Photograph of Cathedral Rock by @reubenfields

The Festival of Samhain

Samhain (pronounced "sow-in") was one of the most significant festivals of the ancient Celtic calendar, observed from sunset on October 31st to sunset on November 1st. This period marked the end of the harvest and the beginning of the dark half of the year. In a time when nature dictated life, the people of County Kerry, like the rest of Ireland, recognized this seasonal shift as a powerful transition, both physically and spiritually.

The Celts believed that during Samhain, the veil between our world and the spirit world was at its thinnest. Spirits of the dead could cross over into the land of the living, and in return, humans could catch glimpses of the mystical and supernatural. In rural Kerry, people lit bonfires on hilltops, a beacon of warmth and light to guide wandering spirits. These fires were thought to protect homes and livestock from harm during the harsh winter months.

Photograph of the Black Valley by @matthewmurphyphotography

Traditions of County Kerry

In the ancient landscape of County Kerry, particularly in areas like the Dingle Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry, Samhain was celebrated with rich traditions passed down through generations. Bonfires were lit in prominent places, from Slieve Mish to the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, creating a network of glowing pyres that connected communities through ritual.

As the festival evolved over the centuries, local customs developed. One such custom was the carving of turnips into grotesque faces to ward off malevolent spirits—an eerie precursor to today’s more familiar jack-o'-lanterns. In fact, it was the Irish immigrants in America who first began carving pumpkins, as they were more abundant and easier to work with than turnips. But the roots of this practice remain firmly planted in Kerry’s ancient past.

Another key tradition was the practice of mumming—a form of disguised visiting where people would don costumes, often made from animal skins or straw, and go door to door, singing songs or offering blessings in exchange for food. These costumes were not just for entertainment; they were intended to protect the wearer by confusing wandering spirits or fairies that might wish them harm.

Sacred Sites and the Otherworld

Uragh Stone Circle - @kenmare.ie

County Kerry is home to some of Ireland’s most sacred ancient sites, which were believed to be portals to the otherworld. Places like the mysterious Skellig Michael, perched on the edge of the Atlantic, or the enigmatic stone circle at Uragh, hold deep spiritual significance in Samhain lore. These locations were thought to be doorways through which spirits and deities could pass into our world during this liminal time.

It wasn’t just the spirits of the dead that roamed the earth during Samhain. The Sí or fairy folk were also believed to be especially active. Legends of An Púca, a shape-shifting spirit that could bring both mischief and fortune, were shared around the hearths of Kerry. Farmers were particularly cautious, as they believed the Púca might spoil their crops or play tricks on their livestock.

The Transformation to Halloween

As Christianity spread throughout Ireland in the early Middle Ages, many pagan traditions were adapted into Christian celebrations. Samhain gradually transformed into what we now know as Halloween. The Church established All Saints' Day on November 1st, followed by All Souls' Day on November 2nd, as a way to honour the dead in a more religious context. But the ancient customs of Samhain never fully disappeared. They simply merged with new traditions, carrying forward the essence of the festival into the modern era.

Today, Halloween in County Kerry, as in the rest of Ireland, is a blend of old and new. Children dress in costumes and go trick-or-treating, homes are decorated with pumpkins and ghostly figures, and the stories of ancient spirits continue to be told. But in the quieter, rural parts of Kerry, the old ways still whisper through the hills. You might see a bonfire lit in a distant field or hear tales of the Púca in a local pub—reminders that Samhain’s magic is very much alive.

Photograph from @DingleAquarium

A Timeless Tradition

As we celebrate Halloween in modern County Kerry, we are participating in a tradition that stretches back millennia. Whether you're wandering through the enchanted forests of Killarney or exploring the windswept coastline of Dingle, remember that the spirits of Samhain are all around, echoing through the land, just as they did for the ancient Celts.

This Halloween, take a moment to look beyond the costumes and candy and feel the timeless connection to our ancestors. Samhain, after all, is not just about the dead—it’s about the cycles of life, the passage of time, and the mysteries that lie between this world and the next.

Happy Halloween, or as we say here in Kerry, Oíche Shamhna Shona Daoibh!

Stay tuned to IAMOFKERRY for more on local traditions, events, and the magic of County Kerry.